Mayo Gems: Visit the pirate cove on Inishturk
WITH the Covid-19 restrictions continuing and national or overseas holidays well into the future, Tom Gillespie, in his Mayo Gems series, focuses on some locations in Mayo – some well known, others more 'hidden', where, hopefully, readers can visit post coronavirus.
This week we visit Inishturk (pictured is a view of the harbour area - taken a number of years ago).
Tradition has it that the Dun at Portdoon on Inishturk island was built by pirates who harboured their galleys in the creek below, screened by the rocks from the observation of those sailing past.
The pirate crew were the last Danes in Ireland who knew how to make bier lochlannach, a priceless drink made from the heather-bloom.
The fort was surprised and taken by the Irish who slaughtered the inmates, except for one Dane and his son, offering to spare the captives if they told the secret of the bier, or as others said, the hiding place of their vast treasures, the plunder of many years.
The old pirate, fearing the boy might be tempted or tortured into betrayal, offered to tell if his son was put to death first, so none of his kin might see his treachery.
This done, the pirate captain tore himself from his captors, and ran, shouting insults, to the deep chasm, springing over the cliff and carrying his secret to Odin.
For 35 years now I have been a regular visitor to Inishturk and hopefully, once this pestilence has receded, I can make another visit there. It is the ultimate get-away-from-it-all destination.
Inishturk is a small, beautiful island, 5km x 2.5km, located nine miles off the west coast of Mayo, between the islands of Inishbofin and Clare Island. It rises boldly from the wild North Atlantic in wall-like cliffs to the northwest and steep hills to the north on which stands the ruins of the old Napoleonic signal tower, 688 feet above sea level.
Inishturk, meaning ‘the Island of the Wild Boar’, has been inhabited on and off since 4,000 BC and in its present phase since at least 1700. The old settlers seem to have congregated at the southwest corner round the beautiful little harbour of Portdoon, where there is ample archeological evidence of their presence.
The flora of Inishturk is of international importance. The Spotted Rock-Rose (Tuberaria guttata), a rare, endangered plant, is found here.
The island is ideal for deep sea diving, and boat trips to the neighbouring islands can be easily organised.
Fishing for Inishturk lobster and huge edible crabclaws are the main commercial activity on the island, and these, along with the many coastal fish, are served fresh in the island’s B&Bs and the Cahir View Restaurant in the community club.
Visitors can enjoy loop walks. The trail-head is located 50m from the pier and follow the way-markers right around the island, passing the entrance to Portdoon, and ending up at the community club where you can enjoy a pint or ‘cuppa’ and the company of some locals.
Details of guest accommodation for the island are as follows: Tránaun House (098) 45641, and Ocean View House, Bill and Mary Heanue, (098) 45520.
There is a regular ferry service from Roonagh Pier. Details from O’Malley Ferries, once the Covid-19 lockdown is lifted.
* Visitor access to the offshore islands is restricted until August 10 at the earliest
If you would like to recommend a hidden gem in your area, email details to gillespietom49@gmail.com.