Mayo Gems: Medieval paintings in Clare Island Abbey
As Covid restrictions left, Tom Gillespie tells us about some great locations in Mayo to visit. This week's installment of his Mayo Gems series will take you on the boat to Clare Island
CLARE Island is an ideal location for a day trip or longer stay.
Its complex history can be read through its landscape, from archaeological remains of the Neolithic and Bronze Age, to rare medieval wall-paintings in the 14th century abbey, to the 'pirate queen' Grace O'Malley's (Granuaile) castle and burial place.
The island population is now around 130, yet everywhere there are traces of past generations, most significantly the 19th century population explosion and subsequent Famine when the island's population of 1,600 was reduced by half.
Old potato ridges, or 'lazy beds', are everywhere. The evening sun reveals them jutting out from the land like the rib cages of some dying beast.
The island has been much studied, with R.L. Praeger's The Clare Island Survey the most well-known.
Clare Island Abbey is located in the centre of the south part of the island, near the post office.
One focal point is the historic St. Bridget's Abbey, which was founded in the 12th/13th century and in 1224 became a cell of Knockmoy Abbey, a Cistercian abbey near Tuam.
It was rebuilt around 1460 and contains numerous tombs of the local ruling family, the O’Malleys, and tradition claims it as the site of the baptism, marriages and burial of Grace O’Malley in the O'Malley tomb, which has a canopy.
The abbey was probably dissolved during the late 16th century. Later it was a place of refuge for Carmelite friars.
The abbey is furnished with piscina, Sedalia carved heads and ogee and cusp-headed lancet windows.
Clare Island Abbey contains a series of medieval wall and ceiling paintings. They depict mythical, human and animal figures, including dragons, a cockerel, stags, men on foot and on horseback, a harper, birds and trees. Such ornamentation is unusual for a Cistercian foundation.
Ferries to Clare Island operate from Roonagh Pier, outside Louisburgh, details of which can be found on the Clare Island web page.