Mayo's jewel in the Atlantic Ocean

Achill Island - Past, Present and Future

by Dr. Michael Gallagher

THE island that my inspirational schoolteacher, Mrs. Kate Duffy, described as “the jewel in the Atlantic Ocean” is indeed a place of outstanding natural beauty with a sense of mystery.

It is difficult to define with certainty when Achill Island was first inhabited but there is some evidence to suggest that the island was inhabited by hunters and fishermen about 7,000 years ago.

If that was the case, then it is likely that the island would be much different than today and would have been mainly covered in a dense forest. The forest would be inhabited by red deer and wild boar and the rivers and sea would have an ample supply of fish to sustain the population.

If we fast forward 2,000 years, then there is more conclusive evidence that the island was inhabited by farmers who brought with them domestic animals and cleared the land to enable the cultivation of cereal crops.

The megalithic tomb at Slievemore confirms the presence of these Neolithic people on the island.

By about 2,000 BC further developments had occurred and during this period (the bronze age) crude metal tools were developed which allowed the population to become more productive both in terms of the increased output from farming and the improvement in hunting techniques.

The iron age, circa 400 BC, saw the expansion of settlements throughout the island and the development of several forts and natural defences to provide protection for the local population.

The Norman invasion in the 12th century ushered in a new era of feudalism, altering the island’s social fabric and power structures.

As English settlers arrived during the Tudor conquest, Achill Island found itself thrust into the midst of cultural upheaval and territorial disputes.

By the 17th century, a semblance of stability emerged, heralding a new chapter in the island’s colourful history. Throughout it all, Achill Island’s inhabitants have demonstrated remarkable fortitude, despite the challenges of living in a very hostile environment.

In the 1800s it is estimated that over 6,000 people lived on the island. The penal laws, introduced during the reign of Queen Anne, had a profound impact on Achill Island.

These laws placed many onerous restrictions on Catholics, including preventing them from owning property, entering Parliament, entering the legal profession, or holding government office.

By the end of the 18th century living conditions for those residing in the west of Ireland were particularly harsh and many people faced severe shortages of food.

Land was owned by absent landowners who had little interest in the welfare of their tenants and whose main aim was to extract the maximum rent from their land.

The humble potato, which was introduced in the late 16th century, was the main food source for most of the population.

Over the decades leading up to the great famine, the potato crop failed on several occasions. However, the failure in 1845 was of a different scale.

The potato blight which had such a devastating impact on the west of Ireland was not confined to Ireland and had a significant impact on other countries before its arrival in Ireland.

Many European countries were similarly affected but the government in those countries were far more proactive than the British government who ruled Ireland at the time.

European countries ensured that the food produced within the country was distributed amongst its population which contrasted with the approach adopted in Ireland whereby vast quantities of food, sufficient to prevent starvation in Ireland, was exported.

Achill, whose main source of food was potatoes, was devastated by the famine and by the mid 1840s little or no food was available to feed the population.

Government support during this period centred around employing men to build roads but the wages paid for this work was insufficient to support a family. The policy of building roads was soon abandoned in favour of soup kitchens.

Edward Nangle located to Achill in the 1830s and set about building a community, which became known as the 'Colony', close to Dugort village. He was shocked by the dire living conditions of the community and resolved to offer relief while simultaneously advancing the cause of Protestantism.

Some of the population of Achill in the 1830s was receptive to this approach given that the Catholic church had done little for the people during their time of need.

The relief offered by Nangle during the famine years was often conditional on the recipients embracing his religious convictions.

Those who accepted relief from Nangle were often ostracised by their community and were referred to as 'Souper’ or ‘Jumpers'. Nangle had some success in converting local Catholics, but it is difficult to determine whether that was a genuine conversion or a means of obtaining food to prevent starvation.

Edward Nangle’s contribution to the wellbeing of the population of Achill is debatable, however, he was successful in forcing a reluctant Catholic hierarchy to take a much greater interest in the welfare and education of the residents of Achill.

Much is written about Edward Nangle, however less is known about Dr. Neason Adams, an associate for Edward Nangle, who set up a dispensary in Dugort and who distributed relief to the people without any preconditions.

In 1831 the population of Achill was estimated to be more than 6,000 people, however, this declined during the famine years due to a high level of deaths and emigration. Although the population has fluctuated during the ensuing years it never again reached the high levels recorded in the 1830s.

The legacy of Edward Nangle, a prominent figure in Achill's history, waned with his departure to County Sligo, coinciding with an improvement in the island's prosperity.

Migration has long been a feature of Irish life, and Achill Island epitomised this reality during the 18th and 19th centuries. The Great Famine spurred a mass exodus, propelling Achill's citizens to seek refuge and opportunities in the USA, Canada, and Britain.

MIGRATION

Following the famine, inadequate farm sizes, which were insufficient to sustain a family, forced many islanders to seek work as seasonal potato pickers in Scotland and England.

These included young people often no older than 14 years old who were required to work in very harsh conditions for ten hours a day.

Their accommodation, described as 'Bothys’ or ‘Shacks', was substandard, with several people sharing a small cold damp room. Tragic incidents, like the 1937 Kirkintilloch fire that claimed the lives of 10 young people, underscored the dangers they faced.

The mid-20th century ushered in a new chapter in Achill’s migration patterns with fewer islanders pursuing agricultural work and an increasing number seeking work in the expanding construction industry in England.

Many male islanders migrated to England to take up employment on motorways, railways and on building sites.

In the mid 1960s there was virtually no family on the island that did not have a father, sons or daughters working in England.

Whereas before the war family members migrated to Scotland or England to work on the potato harvest for three or four months, after the war fathers and sons worked in construction and stayed away for most of the year.

Whilst married men returned home two or three times a year, normally for Christmas, Easter and the summer holidays, many of the younger construction workers took more permanent jobs in England and their trips home became less frequent.

Most of the male migrants from Achill lived in lodging houses which were run by Irish landladies who worked hard to make life as comfortable as possible for them.

However, the living conditions were primitive with up to four men sharing a bedroom and a total of 12 men living in a relatively small terraced house. Likewise, young women from Achill seized opportunities abroad, finding employment in factories, hospitals, and as conductors on buses, forging new lives far from their island home.

Britain was a hostile environment for Irish people in the years up to the late 1960s and discrimination against them was widespread.

Even though they were far from home, Achill migrants formed tight-knit communities in Britian, gathering in specific pubs and dance halls that provided familiarity amidst unfamiliar surroundings.

Numerous young Achill people met their future partners in the various Irish centres and set up home in different parts of Britain, often moving to the more affluent areas of towns and cities as they became more prosperous.

Many Achill migrants, despite their humble beginnings, established successful businesses and secured senior positions in both public and private sector organisations.

Their journey from their island homes to distant shores is a testament to the resilience, resourcefulness and indomitable spirit of the Achill people.

Ireland has for many years enjoyed good education standards, however, the late 20th century ushered in increased opportunities for young individuals to pursue higher qualifications, thereby enhancing their prospects for employment.

This resulted in a pull toward urban centres, enticing many young islanders with the promise of a more cosmopolitan lifestyle and better prospects, perpetuating a cycle of migration.

Consequently, Achill Island witnessed a sharp decline in its population of young people, crucial for fostering a sustainable and vibrant community.

CULTURE AND THE FUTURE

The island's population dwindled from a peak of over 6,000 residents to fewer than 2,500 today, with the majority being elderly people.

Over the past five decades, despite the population decline, there has been a notable surge in the construction of houses on the island.

However, these dwellings primarily serve as holiday homes and contribute minimally to the local economy, being occupied for only brief periods each year.

Whilst fishing was once a significant economic activity on Achill Island, it now plays a much smaller role. Conversely, tourism has consistently been a cornerstone of the island's economy, offering valuable employment opportunities for locals.

Yet, the tourism season is relatively short, and efforts to promote off-season tourism face challenges, especially given the allure of cheaper holidays on the continent with a higher likelihood of sunshine.

Farming, historically a mainstay of the local economy, has seen a decline in relevance due to improved employment prospects abroad for young people. Sheep rearing now constitutes the bulk of agricultural activities on the island.

In the 1960s Achill boasted a patchwork of lush green fields that yielded a variety of crops. However, in recent years, the abandonment of traditional agricultural practices has led to the encroachment of peat bogland and coarse grass, detracting from the island's natural beauty.

Whilst rewilding, the concept of allowing nature to self-regulate, is an important approach to conservation, effective management is crucial to prevent it from diminishing the island's scenic landscape.

Balancing conservation efforts with economic sustainability remains a pressing challenge for Achill Island's future prosperity.

Achill island is an area of outstanding beauty and action to retain this exceptional landscape must be implemented to ensure the island has a viable future.

The decline in the number of young people living on the island is a worrying development and it is important that this trend is reversed.

Ireland is a wealthy nation and the government have the resources to provide the support needed to ensure the future viability of this unique island.

Communities like Achill Island are an important part of Ireland’s heritage, and it is essential that their culture is preserved, so that it may be enjoyed by future generations.

Achill people are a tough and resolute race who have dealt with significant challenges in the past, however, in today’s rapidly changing world they need support more than ever to navigate the economic uncertainties ahead.

One option is the formulation of a strategic plan, led by locals with government backing, charting the island's course for the next two decades.

Such a plan could see Achill designated as the nation's seventh national park, akin to Connemara, fostering both conservation and sustainable development.

To secure Achill's future, several key considerations must be addressed. First and foremost is community engagement, empowering locals to shape their destiny while preserving cultural heritage and traditional ways of life.

Vital to this endeavour is the involvement of the farming community, the stewards of Achill's rural landscape.

While Achill Tourism is a very effective organisation at promoting the island as a must visit destination, incorporating this crucial aspect into a strategic plan could further enhance the island’s potential.

In recent years there has been a noticeable shift in the type of holidays sought by people, with a growing preference for activity-based and cultural experiences.

With its breathtaking coastline, rugged terrain and rich history, Achill is uniquely positioned to take advantage of this trend.

Investment in renewable energy should be one of the crucial pillars of any strategy. Given its advantageous location on Ireland's west coast, Achill holds untapped potential for wind and tidal power, which could provide a pathway to a sustainable and prosperous future.

Raising awareness about the importance of conservation and sustainable development should be a vital component of any strategic plan.

Of particular importance is ensuring that the education system equips young people with the necessary skills to prepare them for the opportunities that will be available on the island in the future.

Improving transportation links between the island and the mainland to facilitate trade and access must be given serious consideration.

Upgrading the infrastructure to ensure that the island has the connectivity it needs to take advantage of the opportunities that emerging technologies offers is essential.

Modern workplaces are very flexible and with the appropriate infrastructure in place Achill could become an important hub for remote working.

In confronting the challenges ahead, Achill Island stands at a crossroad. With a concerted effort from both the local community and government agencies, its unique charm and vibrant community can endure, ensuring a bright future for Achill Island and its residents.

* Dr. Michael Gallagher, originally from Achill Island, spent his early years living there before his family moved to Lancashire in the early 1960s.

After training as a chartered surveyor, he redirected his career path towards healthcare management in the National Health Service (NHS).

He has held several senior management posts in the NHS, notably serving as chief executive of a 1,000 plus bed hospital in Lancashire.

His expertise extends beyond the UK as he has conducted research on healthcare systems in various countries, including the United States and Hong Kong.