Mayo history: Foxford was healthiest place to reside in the 1800s!

By Tom Gillespie

SAMUEL Lewis (circa 1782 to 1865) was the editor and publisher of topographical dictionaries and maps of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland. The aim of the texts was to give, in 'a condensed form', a faithful and impartial description of each place.

The firm of Samuel Lewis and Co. was based in London. Samuel Lewis the elder died in 1865. His son of the same name predeceased him in 1862.

The names of places are those in use prior to the publication of the Ordnance Survey Atlas in 1838.

The dictionary gives a unique picture of Ireland before the Great Famine.

Lewis’ reference to Foxford and Straide reads:

FOXFORD, a market and post town, in the parish of Toomore, barony of Gallen, county of Mayo, province of Connaught, eight miles (S.) from Ballina and 132 miles (N.W. by W.) from Dublin, on the river Moy, and in the road from Ballina to Swinford; containing 1,068 inhabitants, and consisting of 209 houses indifferently built.

The Irish or Celtic term for Foxford is Belass, signifying the ‘mouth of a cataract’.

During the disturbances of 1798, when the French, under General Humbert, had taken possession of the town of Ballina, the garrison, under Col. Sir T. Chapman and Major Keir, retreated to this place; and General Humbert, on abandoning Castlebar, passed with his army through there town, on his route to Sligo.

It is a place of very great antiquity, and was formerly the key of Tyrawley; from it the district, which extends a considerable distance, even into the adjoining county of Galway, takes its name: it is mostly surrounded by a chain of high mountains.

The beautiful river Moy, which in its course receives the principal waters of the county of Mayo, until it discharges itself into the sea at Ballina, runs through the town, where it is crossed by a very ancient bridge of several arches, now in a state of decay.

But in the dissolution of the Linen Board, 140 looms in this town and neighbourhood were thrown out of employment: the only trade carried on is in corn.

The market is on Thursday, and fairs are held, chiefly for cattle, on May 13, June 25, October 3 and December 10.

There is a market and court-house, here petty sessions are held on alternative Fridays; a constabulary police station, and an infantry barrack.

The place is remarkable for the longevity of the inhabitants, being considered one of healthiest spots in this or any of the adjoining counties.

In the town stand the parish church and a R.C. chapel; and there are two public schools.

About three miles distant, on the Castlebar road, are the ruins of an extensive monastery, still inhabited by a solitary individual of the order, and according as one died his place is supplied by another.

At a ford a little below the town is a huge rock, called Cromwell’s rock, where it is stated the Protector’s army crossed the Moy, during the civil war.

A few years since, whilst the streets were undergoing some repairs, a deep pit was sunk at the corner of the main street, to raise gravel, on which occasion a great number of human skulls and skeletons was dug up, evidently indicating the scene of some battle.

STRAIDE or TEMPLEMORE, a parish in the barony of Gallen, county of Mayo, providence of Connaught, four miles (S.W.) from Foxford, on the road from Foxford to Castlebar, and win the river Moy and Lough Culle; containing 4,135 inhabitants.

A Franciscan friary was founded here by the sept of Mac Jordan, but in 1252 this house was given to the Dominicans by Jordan, of Exeter, Lord of Athlethan, or by his son Stephen; a very small part remains, but the walls of the church, which was singular beautiful, are nearly entire, with some curious ornaments and a remarkable tomb: a house has been built adjoining the church, which is inhabited by some order.

The parish comprises 6,447 statute acres, as applotted under the Tithe Act: the land is principally under tillage. There are quarries of limestone and some bog.

In the village of Straide is a constabulary police station; and fairs are held on May 31, July 30, October 23 and November 27.

The living is a vicarage, in the diocese of Achonry, episcopally united, in 1805, to the vicarages of Bucholla, Towmore, Killasser, and Killedan, and in the patronage of the Bishop; the rectory is impropriate in the representatives of the late Roger Palmert, Esq.

The tithes amount to £279, 11. 4., one half of which is payable to the impropriators, and the other half to the vicar; the gross amount of the tithes of the benefice is £893. 8. 2.

There are two churches in the union, one at Foxford, in the parish of Towmore, and the other at Ballinamore in the parish of Killedan.

In the R.C. divisions the parish is a separate benefice; the chapel is a large slated building contiguous to the abbey. There are four private schools, in which are about 240 children.

Ballylahan castle is the ruin of an ancient fortress, about 30 feet square, built by one of the Jordan family, who had many more in the neighbourhood.

An ancient bridge of 16 arches, called Alahan, or the Broad Ford, here crosses the river. Ruins exist of the ancient church of Templemore.