Life on Achill Island in the 1950s through the eyes of a schoolboy

By Dr. Michael Gallagher

NESTLED along Ireland’s rugged west coast, Achill Island in the 1950s was a world defined by simplicity, hardship, and resilience. Growing up in Ballinasally offered me a rare perspective on a way of life that’s now nearly gone. Looking back, I can vividly recall a community deeply rooted in faith, tradition, and the breathtaking beauty of its landscape.

Roots in a small island hamlet: By the late 1940s, housing on Achill Island had improved considerably, yet remained basic by modern standards. Many homes, known as ‘congestion houses,’ had been built through government programmes aimed at reducing rural poverty and enhancing living conditions. These stone cottages, though simple, were sturdy, featuring whitewashed walls and flagstone floors. However, they lacked modern amenities such as electricity and running water. Daily life centred around the turf fire that served as the main source of warmth and a gathering place for the family. Cooking was done using pots and kettles suspended from a metal frame above the fire, with hot coals sometimes placed on top of the pots to ensure even heat distribution.

The interior was very simple and the living area consisted of a couple of individual chairs, a dresser, a table and a long bench for visitors to sit on.

Villages were small and scattered, consisting of modest stone and slate cottages, though some houses had embraced a more modern design with flat concrete roofs, built to withstand the ferocious coastal winds, a practical response to the challenges of island life.

Farms were small, many little more than 20 acres, and were generally a mixture of poor-quality agricultural land and bogland. Livestock, including cows, sheep, chickens, and a donkey, were essential for sustenance and survival. The donkey played a vital role in hauling turf from the bog.

A life rooted in faith and community: Families’ daily routine was steeped in faith, particularly under the influence of the deeply religious elders. The evening rosary brought families together in prayer, a practice mirrored in most households across the island. The walls of homes were adorned with religious images, underscoring the significance of the church in daily life.

Achill’s social fabric was tightly woven, with neighbours helping one another. Whether assisting with farm tasks, sharing tools, or providing food to travelling people, acts of generosity were commonplace. The island’s isolation necessitated this interdependence, creating a community that thrived on mutual support.

Some lived their entire lives without ever venturing beyond Ireland, whilst others never even set foot on the mainland. However, as time progressed, an increasing number of islanders - primarily men - began seeking work abroad in England and the United States. These journeys provided new opportunities and experiences.

A frugal but resilient existence: Family meals were simple and dictated by the limitations of the open turf fire. Breakfast often consisted of eggs, tea with bread and butter, while dinner might include boiled bacon, cabbage and potatoes. Lamb occasionally appeared on the menu, and surplus hens provided an additional protein source when they were no longer laying eggs.

Most family’s smallholding produced potatoes, cabbage and other vegetables, offering some self-sufficiency despite the harsh environment. Hardship was a constant companion.

Many fathers emigrated each year to work on potato farms in England and Scotland. Their departure was a poignant reminder of the economic challenges that drove many islanders to seek work abroad.

For many sheep farming was a significant part of their lives and required year-round effort. Grazing on the mountains exposed flocks to harsh weather and predators, demanding vigilance and skill from the farmers. The springtime shearing brought much-needed income, with wool sold to traders who visited the island.

The role of tradition in island life: In island life, tradition played a pivotal role, shaping personal and social dynamics. Men typically married women from the same locality. Sometimes individuals married someone from the mainland, and while this was rare at the start of the decade, it became more common by the late ‘50s.

When a man married, the new bride usually moved into his home, assuming the role of ‘woman of the house’, while the older woman in the family took on a less active role. Occasionally, however, the man would move into the woman's home, particularly if she was the only child or the one responsible for caring for aging parents. In such cases, the man would become the primary earner for the household.

Families lived in close quarters, often in small homes where three generations shared space. Children, from a young age, learned to care for the elderly, a necessity in an environment with no nursing homes or care facilities. The elderly stayed within the family home, ensuring that every stage of life - from the birth of siblings to the death of grandparents - was witnessed and understood by the younger generation.

Although the practice of matchmaking was gradually fading by the 1950s, it still played a role in island marriages. A matchmaker would often seek a father’s permission for his daughter’s hand in marriage on behalf of a single man, even if the couple hardly knew each other. Despite the limited involvement of the couple in this process, many of these marriages turned out to be surprisingly successful. For unmarried sons or daughters, caring for elderly parents was a primary duty. After the parents passed, the child would typically move in with a married sibling.

Social life was also defined by strict codes of dress. Men were expected to wear a suit and tie, along with light shoes, for church or social events. A flat cap was mandatory for men of a certain age. Women, on the other hand, were expected to wear skirts or dresses and scarves, with trousers seen as inappropriate. Clothing was a reflection of respectability, and adhering to standards was essential for one’s social standing.

Nature's harsh but inspiring presence: The island’s beauty belied the challenges it posed to its inhabitants. Steep cliffs, rolling mountains and expansive bogland created a dramatic backdrop for daily life, while the relentless Atlantic weather tested the endurance of all who lived there.

Some roads were little more than gravel tracks, and trips to church or the nearest shop often required an hour-long walk. Bogs were integral to the island’s way of life, providing the turf that heated homes and fuelled cooking fires. Cutting and transporting the turf was a labour-intensive process, yet it was one that underscored the islanders’ resilience and connection to their environment.

Fishing also played a vital role, particularly in coastal villages. Traditional currachs allowed islanders to navigate the treacherous Atlantic waters. The camaraderie among fishermen was a testament to the shared struggles and triumphs of their trade.

CHANGING TIMES

A vanishing way of life: By the 1950s Achill’s population had begun to decline, mirroring a broader trend in rural Ireland. Emigration to cities and overseas was driven by the lack of economic opportunities on the island. The echoes of the Great Famine, which devastated Ireland a century earlier, lingered in the collective memory. The famine’s impact had reshaped rural communities, leaving scars that persisted in the cultural and economic landscape.

A wave of change: Emigration has always been a part of life for Irish families, especially on Achill Island. For years, people left in search of better opportunities, shaping the island’s identity. Achill reflected a community balancing its strong traditions with the need to adapt to changing times.

While earlier waves of migration were spurred by dire circumstances such as the Great Famine, the 1950s saw a new pattern emerge - one that reshaped the social and economic landscape of the island and its people. For generations, Achill’s residents sought seasonal work abroad, particularly in Scotland and England. Before World War II, men and young women typically spent months away from home, toiling in agriculture, particularly during the potato harvest. This was often a temporary arrangement, with workers returning home after a few months.

By the mid-1950s, this seasonal rhythm began to fade. Men increasingly left for England’s burgeoning construction industry. For many, this shift meant not just months, but years away from home, with fathers and sons often gone for most of the year and only returning for short periods in summer and at Christmas. Living conditions for migrants were challenging. Crowded lodging houses run by Irish landladies offered some limited comfort, but life was stark.

Women from Achill also found opportunities abroad, particularly in factories, hospitals, and as bus conductoress, forging new lives.

Few people from Achill had the opportunity to pursue further education in their adopted countries. As a result, many were confined to menial tasks far below their true capabilities, often continuing in such roles for the entirety of their working lives. Additionally, having a strong Irish accent, as was common among people from the west of Ireland, presented a significant barrier to advancement.

Bridging the distance: Staying connected with family whilst abroad was a priority, albeit a challenging one. Letters were the lifeline, cherished for the news and comfort they brought. Telegrams, though faster, were unwelcome because they were often associated with bad news. Telephones were rare luxuries.

Despite these limitations, families worked tirelessly to maintain their bonds, using letters, occasional calls and even seasonal visits to keep the spirit of community alive across the miles.

Life on the island: Back in Achill those who stayed behind faced their own challenges. Women often bore the burden of managing both the farm and the household. Life was physically demanding, with every family member, even children, contributing to the upkeep of the land and livestock.

Spring heralded the arduous task of harvesting turf. Summers were equally busy, with hay cutting and saving taking centre stage, while autumn brought the harvest of oats and potatoes, critical to surviving the long winters.

Very few people owned a car, consequently buses provided a vital link between the island and mainland, though their schedules were sparse. For shorter trips, bicycles were indispensable.

Education amid adversity: School life on Achill was a mix of tradition and inspiration. The one-room Dugort National School, like many others, lacked electricity, running water and adequate heating. A turf fire provided the only warmth, and families often contributed fuel to keep the classroom warm.

Despite these challenges, education had a powerful impact. Mrs. Katie Duffy, a remarkable teacher, introduced modern ideas and methods that were very different from the strict, punishment-focused practices of that time. Her emphasis on literature, international events, and critical thinking expanded horizons far beyond the small classroom.

The curriculum in the Achill schools was straightforward, emphasising the 'Three Rs' - Reading, Writing, and Arithmetic. Lessons were conducted in English and Gaelic and religious education played a significant role.

The Catholic Church had a strong influence, and religious instruction and preparation for sacraments like first Communion and Confirmation were integrated into the school day.

The school was not just a place of learning but also a hub of social interaction. For children from isolated farms, it offered a rare chance to form friendships and connect with a broader community.

Most children on Achill Island finished school at 14, though some left earlier to help with work on the farm. However, in the late 1940s, an important change took place when higher education options were introduced to the island. This initiative, largely driven by Padraic Sweeney, allowed students to continue their studies beyond their local village school. This new opportunity helped students improve their career prospects and, in a few cases, even led them to university.

Although it was rare, some students also left their village schools early to attend boarding schools, which were typically run by the church. These schools offered further education and were an option for those who could afford to leave the island for a more formal education setting.

Alongside academic education, vocational training was also available on Achill. Programmes, such as carpentry courses in Cashel, gave young people the chance to learn practical skills for future work. Many students took advantage of these training opportunities, which helped them prepare for jobs in trades and other hands-on careers.

The role of the Catholic Church: The Catholic Church was a cornerstone of life on Achill, shaping its cultural, spiritual and social framework. By the 1950s, its influence was profound, governing everything from weekly Mass attendance to moral and social expectations.

Traditions like fasting before Communion and meatless Fridays were strictly observed. The Church was central to life’s milestones - baptisms, weddings, and funerals - and its calendar dictated the rhythm of the year.

Still, the Church’s power came with its own pressures. Its strict rules gave people little freedom to make personal decisions, especially about marriage and family. Those who went against social expectations often faced criticism, showing how limited personal choices were at the time.

Challenges of healthcare in an isolated location: Healthcare on Achill in the 1950s was a testament to the island’s resilience. Two general practitioners served as lifelines, making house calls a necessity in a community where transportation was limited. Accessing hospital care was a daunting task. Trips to Castlebar or Galway for serious illnesses often imposed a heavy burden on families.

Traditional remedies played an important role in bridging gaps left by limited formal healthcare. Folk cures were more than practical - they connected the community to its heritage. Pharmacies, too, became pillars of support, offering advice alongside medicines. Childbirth during this time blended tradition and modern care. Most births occurred at home with experienced women assisting, but trained midwives were becoming more common. Despite improvements, high infant and maternal mortality remained a serious concern.

The absence of basic infrastructure, like running water and proper sanitation, made health problems worse, especially the spread of infectious diseases. However, during this time, vaccination campaigns for polio and tuberculosis were introduced, which helped improve overall health.

OPPORTUNITIES AND SOCIALISING

Tourism - a changing island: The ‘50s marked the rise of tourism on Achill Island, transforming its economic and cultural landscape. The island’s natural beauty began attracting visitors, with prominent establishments like the Great Southern Hotel in Mulranny and smaller hotels and guesthouses on Achill Island providing employment, especially for young women who lived in the premises.

For young women, this employment was not just about earning a wage. It was a rite of passage, a step towards independence. Freed from the watchful eyes of parents, they could attend dances and social events that were becoming increasingly popular. These gatherings were more than just entertainment - they gave young people a sense of freedom and an opportunity to meet with others who were also discovering their independence.

Entertainment and celebration: Community life was centred around traditional events like céilís, where music and dancing helped bring people together. Both men and women followed strict social rules, and young people had to find their way while meeting the cultural expectations of that era.

The dance venues were small, and it was common for women to sit on one side of the room and men on the other. Men would ask women to dance, and being refused could lead to embarrassment for the man. Likewise, it must have been uncomfortable for a young woman if she was not asked to dance at all during the evening.

By the mid-1950s, new music from the U.S. and Britain reached Achill, exciting the younger generation. Radios introduced artists like Elvis Presley, and jive and ballroom dancing began replacing traditional dances, signalling a shift in our way of life.

Storytelling was a treasured form of entertainment, especially on long, dark winter nights. Elders shared folklore and eerie local legends, often speaking of banshees wailing in the night or people mysteriously taken by fairies. These tales, both frightening and fascinating, captivated young listeners and kept them on edge.

House visits were common, with neighbours gathering to swap stories and news, strengthening the close-knit community and preserving the island’s rich oral traditions.

Movies were another significant form of entertainment, shown regularly in village halls. These film screenings provided a glimpse into different worlds and experiences. Westerns were popular, and although the halls were far from luxurious - fitted with uncomfortable wooden benches - the magic of cinema transported viewers to far-off places and adventures.

The pub was also an important meeting place for men in the 1950s. These were simple, dimly lit places where men gathered to drink, talk, and escape daily hardships. Women were not allowed inside, and this feature did not change until the 1960s. Unfortunately, some men spent a significant portion of the family's small income in the pub, leaving less for essential needs. This frequently led to strain, as many families found it difficult to survive in already challenging circumstances.

Festivities like St. Patrick’s Day and Bonfire Night brought villagers together in celebration, blending ancient traditions with contemporary practices. Halloween, rooted in Irish folklore, was marked by playful mischief, highlighting the community’s vibrant spirit.

Sustenance from the land and sea: Achill’s food sources reflected the island’s self-sufficiency and connection to nature. Fishing was a key part of everyday life, with families depending on the rich waters of the Atlantic and local streams to provide for their needs. Gathering shellfish, such as periwinkles and limpets, or harvesting seaweed like Dillisk and Carrageen Moss added variety to their diets.

The island’s hedgerows yielded blackberries in the late summer; a seasonal treat often turned into jam.

Most families had a surplus supply of milk, particularly during the summer months. Milk was usually consumed as a drink, but any surplus was often used to make homemade butter. Butter was an essential part of most islanders' diets; however, purchasing it from the shop was expensive, so many families opted to make their own. Butter-making was sometimes accompanied by folk traditions and superstitions. For instance, anyone who entered the house during the churning process was expected to assist, even if only for a brief time.

A childhood among wildlife: In the 1950s, Achill was a wildlife haven, its diverse ecosystems teeming with life. Red foxes were a familiar, if elusive, presence. Their raids on lambs and chickens caused frustration. Farmers saw them as a menace and often took measures to control their numbers.

The fields and bogs abounded with rabbits and hares, which were an additional source of food. Wild goats roamed freely on Minaun, deftly navigating its steep, rocky slopes, always just out of reach.

Birdsong marked the passage of time and the change of seasons. Winters brought flocks of geese and starlings, while coastal cliffs came alive with the cries of gulls, gannets and guillemots. Spring was heralded by the call of the cuckoo, and the arrival of summer brought the distinctive rasp of the corncrake - a sound that, over time, became bittersweet as the species grew increasingly scarce.

The surrounding sea was equally abundant, offering both food and livelihood. Fishing played a critical role in sustaining the community, and in the 1950s, shark fishing emerged as a particularly important industry, providing much-needed employment.

The arrival of modernity: Despite widespread hardships, the 1950s marked the onset of significant changes on Achill Island. Electricity arrived mid-decade, transforming daily life for many households. Although some homeowners opted to keep their traditional turf fire, others purchased turf fuelled ovens (ranges) which allowed them to cook a more extensive variety of dishes.

Furthermore, the advent of modern conveniences like radios heralded a shift in the island’s isolation. Roads were also improved, making travel slightly easier and connecting the island’s scattered villages.

Reflections on resilience: Achill Island in the 1950s was a place where survival depended on resourcefulness, hard work, and the strength of communal bonds. While modern influences gradually reshaped aspects of island life, its traditions endured, offering a glimpse into a world where simplicity and resilience went hand in hand.

For those who experienced it, Achill was not just a place to live - it was a teacher, shaping important values like persistence, flexibility, and togetherness. Although many people left the island in search of better opportunities, the spirit of Achill stayed with them, becoming an essential part of who they were. It served as a lasting reminder of the strength and influence of the island and its community.

* Dr. Michael Gallagher, originally from Achill Island, spent his early years living there before his family moved to Lancashire in the early 1960s. After training as a chartered surveyor, he redirected his career path towards healthcare management in the National Health Service (NHS), holding several senior management posts. He has also conducted research on healthcare systems in other countries, including the US and Hong Kong.