A culinary journey of warthog, kudu steak and smoked crocodile

By Tom Gillespie

IN my 57 years in journalism I have consumed many strange and exotic meals in various parts of the world.

I am of the belief that you should try anything at least once and that has always been my culinary mantra.

But there was one restaurant that stands out head and shoulders above the others.

I have experienced different foods in Bali, Thailand, Morocco, Malaysia, China, America, Canada, Aruba, Mauritius, Vietnam, the Canary Islands, Egypt, Ethiopia, France, Spain, Portugal, Germany, England, Cuba, Scotland, Malta, Slovenia, Latvia, Cyprus, Tunisia, Turkey, Dubai, Guernsey, Abu Dhabi and Croatia. But the best was the Boma Restaurant in the Safari Lodge in Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.

The Boma was more than a night out. The Boma was a gastronomic explosion of the finest African dishes, the highlight being the warthog fillet as well as buffalo, ostrich, kudu steak, with game stew and guinea fowl, mixed with a selection of traditional Zimbabwean dishes.

The common warthog is a medium-sized species of wild pig, with a head-and-body length ranging from 0.9 to 1.5 metres and shoulder height from 63.5 to 85 cm. It is very distinctive when seen in the wild as it runs with its tail upright.

Though equipped with tusks, I encountered one while on a Zimbabwean safari being attacked and eaten alive by a pack of wild dogs, of which I have written before.

But back to the Boma, it is partially open to the African skies, and offers a unique experience of exotic meats that bombard the senses with the tastes, sights, sounds and smells of Africa.

The Boma offers a four-course meal combining a mouth-watering choice of starters from the kitchen, soup from the campfire and a substantial barbecue buffet served on cast iron plates.

A feast of nightly entertainment presents Amakwezi traditional dancers, singers, a local story teller and a Sangoma (traditional healer). After dinner, guests are invited to join in the drumming extravaganza. This is the highlight of the evening and all were invited to participate in the drumming and dancing show with their renowned drummers - Amazulu.

As you can see from the photograph, guests are suitably decorated with the painted on paw marks of wild animals as well as wearing traditional chitenges (robes) and are welcomed with traditional greetings in the local languages - Shona and Ndebele.

They are invited to take part in a hand washing ceremony before sampling traditional beer and snacks, as a prelude to dinner.

The starter menu is influenced by local ingredients. The menu offers a unique selection of traditional dishes. You can expect to taste Nyimo beans and groundnuts, smoked crocodile and deep-fried Kapenta.

Everyone’s tastes are catered for and while the adventurous are enticed with local delicacies such as mopani worms and game stews, those wishing to enjoy beef, pork, fish and chicken or a variety of vegetarian meals are welcome to do so.

Eating a dried mopani worm has become somewhat of a tradition at the Boma. If you are brave enough to eat one you receive a certificate to prove it. To my credit I have three hanging on the wall, representing as many visits to the restaurant.

The mopani worm is a large, edible caterpillar that feeds primarily but not exclusively on mopani tree leaves. Mopani worms are an important source of protein for millions in the region.

Taste-wise they are best described as like eating dry sawdust.

The Boma is on the grounds of the sunset-facing Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, just 4km from the world’s largest waterfall. It is built on a plateau, offering spectacular views of pristine bushveld, including a wildlife-rich waterhole, where we saw elephants and vultures while enjoying a bottle of Zambezi beer in the Buffalo Bar overhead.

Built of thatch and timber, the lodge rises several levels, giving the impression of a vast open-plan tree house, while all 72 rooms, which overlook the Zambezi National Park, have sliding glass doors opening from a light spacious interior onto a private balcony.

Guests are advised not to leave the balcony doors open as the local band of monkeys will destroy the room. Likewise, guests going to the Boma must be bussed to and from as wild animals roam the national park.

Victoria Falls, known locally as ‘the smoke that thunders’, is a waterfall on the Zambezi River, which provides habitat for several unique species of plants and animals. It is located on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe and is considered to be one of the world's largest waterfalls due to its width of 1,708 metres.

The town of Victoria Falls is a gateway to the massive waterfall of the same name where the Zambezi River plummets over a cliff and into the Boiling Pot before flowing through a series of gorges.

The Devil’s Pool, a natural infinity pool, is on the edge of a sheer drop. Spanning the river is the 1905 Victoria Falls Bridge. The surrounding Zambezi National Park is home to white rhinos and elephants.

The town boasts of many top class hotels, all in view of the rising mist clouds from the tumbling waterfall.